The process begins with selecting a suitable piece of faceting rough. The chosen rough is secured onto a brass dop using wax or CA adhesive. This dop is then inserted into a handpiece, which ensures precise control of the stone’s angle and position during the cutting and polishing phases. The lap is the flat, spinning disc placed on the faceting machine — is used in both the cutting and polishing stages.

The first major stage is cutting the pavilion, which is the lower, pointed part of the gemstone. This area plays a crucial role in returning light through the stone to the viewer’s eye. Unfortunately, in many commercially available gemstones, pavilion angles are often compromised in favour of maximizing carat weight, which sacrifices brilliance, scintillation and light return. 

If the pavilion angle is too shallow, light leaks through the bottom of the stone, producing a "window" effect — a dull, lifeless appearance rather than the bright sparkle of a well-cut gem.

Once the pavilion is properly cut and polished, an alignment block is attached. 

This ensures precise orientation when transferring the stone to cut the opposite side — the crown. 

The transfer process is critical, as it determines whether the crown facets will align perfectly with the pavilion. I experimented with numerous commercially available transfer jigs from around the world, but found them lacking in accuracy or adaptability for different stone sizes. Eventually, I custom-designed and made my own jig to meet my exacting standards, ensuring flawless transfers.

The crown, or upper portion of the gem, is then cut and polished. Since this is the visible part of the stone, extra care is taken with facet proportions, angles, and final polishing. Any imperfections at this stage are highly noticeable, so attention to detail is essential.

The final step involves removing the gem from the dop. The dop is gently heated to release the stone without damage. After a final cleaning, the gemstone is ready to be set into a stunning piece of Scottish-made jewellery.